2008-09-22

Locust trees, dunes and stone walls: Val di Noto in Sicily more authentic  

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Who wants to see the real Sicily, the one without vendors Sicilian carts crowded the edges of the temples of Agrigento or lookout in Taormina, should go in the area to the south of the triangle, the one that almost touches Africa. And have the courage to go where the magnificence of the volcano, the celebrity of casba Palermo el'assaltata beauty of the Aeolian islands give way to the chirp of cicadas, crossed by a desert locust trees and stone walls at various spots surrounded by beaches dunes. The southeast Sicily, in between the province of Ragusa and Siracusa, is the most extreme corner of the island, the true heart of the Mediterranean. It's called Val di Noto and takes its name from the city late for excellence, Noto. But hidden gems less known and more fascinating: Ibla Ragusa, Modica and San Diego. All rebuilt after the earthquake in 1693 with a unique style: the rococo carved in local stone, white and crumbly. Capita so to find the gaze of magnificent cathedrals scenic bill, real stone embroidery, boasting of columns and capitals between miserable huts plaster yellow, consumed scales from four centuries of sun peak, glimpses of streets that require silence, contemplation. More often, though the smell of jasmine Arab mixes with that of tomato and laundry hanging out to dry, with struggimento.

This is Sicily by Giuseppe Tornatore and his Malena, for who speaks the language of cinema. Montalbano Commissioner for those that of television. Of Vinicio Capossela if you love music. By Elio Vittorini, Salvatore Quasimodo and Gesualdo Bufalino for means of literature.
Around, "the usual" historical and archaeological traces left by Sicilians, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards, a campaign designed by rocks and terraces and corners of nature still unspoiled. It will be why the whole area recently joined the list of goods protected by 'Unesco.

Ragusa Ibla
A Ragusa Ibla deserve a visit the Gothic-Catalan old St. George, the Church of San Giorgio, the church of San Giuseppe and communal gardens. But above all, the alleys and streets closed to traffic that offer splendid views of the valley below and the sight of hidden courtyards and beautiful.

Modica

A Modica, an ancient seat of the county and now known for its chocolate tradition of Spanish and Aztec derivation, the tour departs from classic Umberto course, coverage of the stream that ran through the city, to visit the church of Santa Maria di Betlem, the church St. Peter with the statues of the twelve apostles on the staircase, the rock church of St. Nicholas Lower, cave in a jewel of the twelfth century and the two symbols of the city, the Church of San Giorgio, the hinge between the lower and that alta with its 250 steps, and the tower of the castle last part of the walls.

Scicli
In San Diego, the route is short but more suggestive, all concentrated between the Via Francesco Mormino Penna, the living room of the city, and one of the most beautiful Sicilian palace, Palazzo Beneventano. Who has time, the visits during Easter, when it plays one of the most fascinating religious festivals: San Diego. It is the procession of the risen Christ for the alleys of the city, carried on shoulders by the crowd without paths or directions to night. It is also the essence of this part of Sicily: outside time and space.

The kitchen
Ragusa excels for caciocavallo, cheese dall'orgoglio Dop, so called because they spread out to dry on a horse with a rope stretched. San Diego has a serricoltura intense that produces the famous cherry tomatoes and zucchini mini. Modica is now recognized as one of the Italian capital of chocolate: it produces a dough craft, manufactured cold and without milk, which leads Aztec and Spanish traditions. The whole area excels comuque for desserts. The case of ricotta, straight or mixed with chocolate and cinnamon, the "mustazzola" hard biscuits made with honey and almonds, "a ghugghulena" or cobaita, nougat of sesame seeds, "the mpanatigghie, small stuffed trousers a preparation of meat and chocolate. As for savory dishes, worth mention the "Chess" and "pastizzi, rolls of bread dough stuffed with tomato, cheese, broccoli or meat.

How to get there, where to stay and where to eat
Some relevant information for those wishing to travel accingersi. Ragusa, Modica and Scicli can be reached by air (better not rely on trains in a region where rail routes, and sometimes even the coaches, go back to the Bourbons). The nearest airport and in Catania, where they operate all major national and international areas, including low cost and Windjet Volare, (but soon will be available the old missile base in Comiso). From there to rent a car or take a bus or Etna Ast: Ragusa direction.
Those seeking a guide, contact the cooperative Etnos, provides qualified personnel, tourist guides, advice on routes, visits to museums and other helpful tips.
To stay there is a flood of Bed & Breakfast for all tastes and all pockets and are easily booked and visited here. An easy guide to restaurants, however, is here.

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